Thursday, October 1, 2009

Sri NO Ka (Part 2): My soapbox moment...

Sri Lanka has just recently reported an end to its 25-year civil war between the ethnic majority and minority groups in the North. While peace should be celebrated, it will be hard to maintain if the over 280,000 internally displaced persons (IDPs) are left in their impoverished and unsettled state. According to our friends on the island, this population has had little support since the ceasefire in May.

What concerns me when the IDPs are not seen as a priority is that people will grow restless; and violence will come more easily to the neglected and frustrated...those in charge would be wise to refocus their energy on ensuring their citizens are cared for and reintegrated into more stable communities, if they truly want to bring peace to their nation.

Growing up in a community where violence was something we watched on T.V., it is impossible for me to imagine the struggles ahead for this tiny nation where generations have grown up knowing only ethnic violence. My thoughts and prayers remain with them (for more on the conflict and the plight of the IDPs, please check out the report at: http://www.internal-displacement.org/8025708F004BE3B1/(httpInfoFiles)/9D0639639598A4CEC12575A90034A2DE/$file/SriLanka_Overview_May09.pdf).

That being said...here are more images from our visit...



Yes, sometimes it just smells bad...no worries, the nationals do this too, so no one would have been offended :)





These two photos were taken near a wat, or Buddhist temple. The "trek" up to this spot took us all of five minutes from our hotel. Ha!




The look J. captured on my face WAS staged, but pretty much sums up how we were all feeling on our adventure to "Jungle Island," which was neither very jungle-y nor an island (well, other than being a part of Sri Lanka). Our rickety little boat; non-regulation (and very broken) life-jackets (that we had to ask to wear); and non-English-speaking guides were not very reassuring as we braved the rough, open seas...we have photos of us kissing the ground once we made it safely to our destination. I'm thinking never again, unless there are waivers and radios on board...:)

<

(It's a long story...)



Sri Lanka was heavily impacted by the Tsunami back in Dec '04.



Is this auto-rickshaw turned ice cream truck NOT the cutest thing ever?

Wednesday, September 30, 2009

A hard day's night...

Well, a funny story about my Sunday evening two weekends ago, at least...

Sunday was spent catching up a) on sleep, and b) on work. Yes, I was working. Preparing for our "Freedom Training" that was starting on Monday. We are constantly updating the curriculum (hopefully improving it) and I hadn't yet finished all the updates we'd planned. After working for awhile, I took a short break to attend house church (a small group of us meet for church at my friends' apt), which was actually a mini birthday party for a friend's daughter, Sneha. She turned 7 (but her size is more like that of a 5-year-old).

I walked in to her wearing the most elaborate princess gown full of golden roses and singing "happy birthday to ME" at the top of her lungs....she was the most strung-out-on- sugar child I have ever seen. And this was PRE-sugar. She's a hoot. Seriously. We had all brought her "princess" gifts, which she gushed appropriately over...until she opened her gift from our hosts: a birthday princess Barbie. Holy toledo! I thought for a second that she was literally bouncing off walls...it was a sight to behold. The dogs in MY neighborhood (five minutes walking distance away) were barking in response...okay, not really. We ate cake and then dug a wee bit into 1 Peter 2.

An hour later, it was back to the office....at 1 AM, as I was pressing print on the first of several documents that I needed to print, the POWER went out in the entire building. Printing was out. Luckily, we have small back up batteries so I was at least able to keep working on the computer. But these batteries don't last forever, and as the back-up- generated lights began to flicker out, I decided I should save my work as is and shut down before I lose it all. It was now 2:30 am and I had to be back at the office no later than 7 am....with tons to do still, I figured I would simply go home, shower, get ready for the day and ride my bicycle straight back to the office to complete my work.

We usually have mandatory hour and a half power outages, but we hadn't had any for awhile now. For some reason, even though these things are totally unpredictable, I simply thought it would turn back on after a short while. So, I shut down, packed up, locked up our office (padlocks and all) and headed downstairs to retrieve my cycle...our building has a night watchman and a gate. I''ve worked late many nights and the gate is never locked...shut, but not locked. Tonight, however, it was. Padlocked. And our "guard" was sleeping soundly on the steps in front of our office building.

I felt guilty waking him up, but I tried to make the normal "okay, I'm getting ready to leave now" noises...nothing (apparently, my fears that the sad little bell on my bicycle is useless are true; I had better replace it soon before I get run over). Yes, my attempts were pathetic, but honestly, if the pulling-the-gate-down-over-the-office-door-and-padlocking-it racket didn't wake him, nothing would! That process sounds like the tin man pre-oiling tripping over himself in a greek amphitheater. It's just painful! Well, to me, at least. Doesn't seem to phase our guard one bit.

After some time, I gave up: if the dogs barking up a storm and the unregulated car horns (that can also be heard in Sri Lanka) weren't causing him to stir, I didn't stand a chance. Defeated, I headed back up into the office...I feel safe here in general, but I'm not stupid; and walking back at this hour to my house sans bike, while possible, is not a wise thing to do...I undid the fallen tinman, worked a bit longer, and then arranged three desk chairs as a makeshift bed (you all have been there, done that, right?) for a brief nap....

I woke up (with the help of my wonderful boyfriend and fellow co-worker's calls/texts) an hour and a half later to find the electricity still had not returned and I again attempted to leave the grounds. Luckily, this time was much more successful...I had just enough time to clean up and then ride back to the office with the hope of printing something before our car left at 7. The power, however, did not return until midday, apparently...sigh. Oh well. I tried. Oh, and I got home that day (Monday) from our day in the field by 9:30 pm....after a LONG, de-licing shower and a quick call from Ben, I was finally able to get some sleep in a bed.

Thursday, September 10, 2009

Protecting the Master...

A previous post describes the Friday trivia/team building game we play in our office, which we fondly refer to as "The Master's Game." The team that wins each week earns the honor of caring for the monkey-carved-out-of-coconut that we know only as "The Master" (of Ceremonies, essentially). After a recent win (and prior to our more recent losing-streak, I am sad to report), a few of us decided it had been awhile since the master had been properly "dressed" for the Friday fun.

To explain the photos below: Our team is called "Toast" (the nickname for one of our teammates), which is displayed as a classy tattoo on the master's backside in one image. His tuxedo offers him some cover from the coming monsoons, and his mask is simply to protect him from the onslaught of swine flu-even the guards outside of our buildings have been wearing masks of late.

Yes, we DO work...most of the time. :)



Sri NO Ka (Part 1)

Below are some images (pre-camera dying) from a recent, brief excursion with friends to the tropical island-nation of Sri Lanka. It is a beautiful land, of which I only saw a very small piece. We stayed near the old Dutch colonial town of Fort Galle in the south, which is still enclosed within the Fort's ramparts. Most of the images below are from our day around the Fort, itself. "Sri NO ka" became our catch phrase after running into several snags, as any good adventure would. We say it fondly now, of course...









Tuesday, September 1, 2009

Medical Camp 2009







Some more images from the day: over 200 families served in one village. The team of national and non-nationals worked tirelessly all day, in extremely hot, unventilated "cubbies." Several families from the operation I was a part of back in December live in this village, which is an hour from the nearest hospital/clinic- one reason it was selected for the camp. The other main reason, however, is our desire to improve community relations for our clients as they reintegrate into free society.

The Girl Child

My sister is expecting! You wouldn’t know it though-even with her preggo belly, she’s still about half my size. It’s slightly awkward telling people “she’s pregnant” when I show them her picture, because I feel as though I’m insulting their intelligence...but really, on her, you can’t tell!! So, come mid-October, or somewhere thereabouts, my parent’s first grandchild should grace us with his presence. I cannot wait to meet “Peanut,” as he is affectionately referred to for the time being. Yes, Peanut is a boy...



[One of his earlier ultrasounds!]

When I share the news of my sister's pregnancy with folks back home, I can usually expect to hear the question: “Is she having a boy or girl?” Parents-to-be can elect to know the sex of their unborn child ahead of time in the U.S. Some prefer to be surprised, but others would like to choose a name, prepare a nursery, or begin a wardrobe deemed gender-appropriate (whatever that may mean).

Here, however, that is not the case. To be more accurate, that is simply not an option. Parents are not allowed to know the sex of their child before it is born; there are laws against it. Labs performing ultrasound scans, for example, are forbidden to reveal any details as to the sex of a fetus. The reason behind such a law is rather sobering.

Female infanticide is a problem of epic proportions, especially in this state. Despite the laws that are currently in place, bribes are still paid to lab technicians. In cases where abortions due to pre-determination are not possible, midwives may be paid to provide “female deselection” services (where the baby’s spine is snapped after birth), or female babies are blatantly murdered in infancy, through neglect, poisoning, or other torturous abuse.

Economic, cultural, and religious factors have resulted in a son being valued over a daughter. In many communities, a bride’s family is expected to provide a dowry* to the groom’s family, leading to a great economic burden for her parents. Extremely poor families may sell their daughters to local temples as Devadasi, or "brides to the gods" (which essentially means they will be used by the temple priests as a means to make money through prostitution...a fate any girls born to the Devadasi are doomed to share) to avoid the debt of paying her dowry later in life. Another blow to the parents of girls is that the bride leaves her family, along with her dowry, and joins her husband’s. As a result, his parents are guaranteed caretakers later in life, while the bride’s parents are not. His parents gain capable hands, which can help with the household chores. Her parents are down a labourer. The familial line passes through the male, where a man is known as “the son of so-and-so” and the female is either “the daughter of so-and-so” (her father) or “the wife of so-and-so.” In the Hindu religion, certain rites (such as the lighting of his parents’ funeral pyre) can only be performed by a son, again making a boy child preferred over a girl. In some cases, women have reported seeing their lives as so invaluable, that they see killing a baby girl as doing the child a favour. If the girl child survives infancy, she may still be at risk of abandonment. Orphanages in the region are overflowing with young girls. A friend here is starting a non-profit to raise awareness about female infanticide, and to raise funds for the few local organizations that are already trying to combat the issue. It is a disturbing phenomenon, and a sad, sad reality.

Recently, I read an article in the paper here about a village in a northern state, where there is a shortage of brides; so the men have built a road to ease the travel of women from other villages into their own. Now, I don’t really know the cause of this “shortage” of women, but I certainly have a guess...there are frightening statistics highlighting the overall imbalance between genders country-wide.

Watch out, Peanut! I may be bringing a girl cousin home for you...make that five girl cousins...okay, not really. Well, maybe....

*There are also laws banning the giving of/expectation of dowry, but in many rural, very traditional communities, the practice continues. Female infanticide and Devadasi are just two of the many issues that stem from the giving of a dowry. Another is when a groom’s family demands more from the bride’s family. The bride will often suffer beatings, burnings, and other forms of torture until her family is able to meet those demands...

The pictures below are of some girls in a nearby village, where we recently held a medical "camp" (a day of free medical services)-it was my second since arriving last October. I just can't fathom the idea that these darlings could be viewed as worthless by some...





Thursday, August 27, 2009

The Namesake

As a result of our recent wave of rescue operations, we had five straight days of Freedom Trainings. Despite the long, hot days, it was a great week. After several days of dancing with kids during our downtime; having them explain their drawings to me (in a language I could not understand, mind you....it’s poor social work, but amazing how a simple “oh?” or “wow, super!” can satisfy the desires of the child showing off his/her work...just to be acknowledged seems to speak a million words to the children); carrying various toddlers (who reached for ME to hold them!!) on our trek to the local farmhouse; and listening to the endless giggles of all ages as they watched a Disney film, I’ve decided that perhaps I should rethink my career and become a pre-school teacher? My arm was pleasantly sore for several days from all the child holding. It was divine.

The week held many stories and highlights, but for the sake of time (and your sanity), I will share just one: about a ten-year-old boy, M., rescued from a rock quarry. When asked to draw pictures of life in the quarry, the children drew themselves carrying heavy boulders over their heads. During an early session with the kids, M. claimed he had no desire to go back to school (having dropped out in the third grade).

Later that same day, one of our social work graduate student interns led a session on the importance of education. This particular group of kids was so attentive that she quickly got through her material; and had time to work with each child individually. It turned out that M., the oldest child in this group, had never learned to write his name! So, D., the intern, spent several minutes teaching him how to write the characters that make up his name in his native tongue.

After his first time drawing the entire sequence of characters on his own, we all clapped for him (including M. himself!). He was so pleased with his accomplishment that he continued to practice and practice until he could draw it all from memory. Every time he finished his name, he would smile broadly and clap for himself...until we’d all join in and celebrate with him. He even learned to write his sister’s name that afternoon.

The kids were called away from our room, after awhile, to join their parents for family activities. Since they all seemed so intent on practicing their writing, we let them each keep one marker for the night. Once the room had been cleaned up, I walked outside to observe the game-playing. Instead, I saw the kids face down over their papers scribbling away on the edge of the field. When M. caught sight of me, he snatched up his work and ran over to show it off. He pointed out his carefully crafted characters, and pronounced each one clearly. We cheered together over his feat, and then he whipped around to hurry back to his spot on the ground.

But, with his back to me, he suddenly froze. I saw him pat his back pocket with sharp, frantic movements. Then, as I watched, he sighed deeply and, looking over his shoulder, he flashed a relieved smile as he held his marker up for me to see. He had not lost his new prize. All was well. The pen was tucked away in that pocket, once again, as we laughed together about his near-tragedy. Again he turned away, and again, he jolted to a stop. I observed the same hesitation, the quick check of the back pocket, and the deep breath of assurance that yes, his marker STILL remained safe in his pocket, before he finally walked away.

In social work, there is a theory that if we can help our clients succeed in one area (for example, in the therapeutic school setting, if a teen who is struggling with staying in a classroom for longer than five minutes manages to stay in a room for ten minutes, he or she might be “rewarded” and that extra five minutes in a room would be considered a success), they will learn that they are able to do something they had previously thought impossible or see themselves as "capable." The theory continues that this will encourage the client to continue working towards further success. Now, I’ve worked in the therapeutic school setting, and this is a slowwwwwww process. To see this theory play out in a span of less than two days, with M. realizing his ability to learn, floored me!

The following day, he could not stop talking about school and how he wanted to become a teacher, just like the gentleman we have leading a majority of the children’s sessions, J. If only words could truly convey M.’s excitement over his achievement...Watching how he cared for his newest tool on the grassy field was such a sweet moment. No matter how tiring the week, witnessing M.’s experience alone would have been worth it all.



Puppet shows used during discussion on child sexual abuse. Amazingly, there were no tears this time (puppets can be scary sometimes! I remember being afraid of Chuck E. Cheese...that was one BIG mouse...it just made no sense!).



A child working on the "touching rules" workbook.


One of the piggies at the farm. We also saw geese, turkey, love birds, cows, and flowers. But mostly pigs. It smelled niiiice.



Running to catch up with the group-we'd been distracted by a peacock sighting! And then there were the deer...eventually we caught up to the group making its way to the farm.

Tuesday, June 23, 2009

Culture Shock: Chennasty Days

Culture shock can be depicted as a curve, much like a “u.” Imagine, coming into a new culture. At first, you are in the “honeymoon stage” of oohs and aahs...everything is cool and interesting. That’s the left-side top of the “U.” After a bit, the differences between your home culture and this new culture start to become more apparent, and tolerance for these differences begins to wear thin. When one is at his/her lowest, or at the bottom of the “U,” he/she may prefer to be alone and seclude him/herself; or view everything in a negative light. As time wears on, one typically will begin to understand the new culture better or become more comfortable with the differences and begin to climb out of the “U.” The theory goes on to explain that once an individual reaches the right-side top of the “U,” he/she has successfully adjusted to the new culture.

This is not to say that there is only one “u” for an individual to overcome. They come and they go. When living in community, it is important to remember that people experience the highs and lows of culture shock at varying points. To assist our little community of transients in staying aware of when one of us is experiencing a high or low, we have had t-shirts made sporting the terms “Chennice” (for good days here) and “Chennasty” (for days when we’ve just about had it, and people would be wise to steer clear).

Until recently, I cannot remember a day where I felt like I had reached the depths of the cultural “U” enough to sport my “Chennasty” shirt. During this period of shifting, however, I have had more days wishing I had a closet FULL of that particular shirt than I would like to admit.

Let us all praise God that my friends and co-workers made it through this time. I am happy to report that the shirt has been officially tucked back down to the bottom of my clothes pile. May it rest there in peace for the next four and a half months.



[Sometimes the crowds on the streets can just be too much...other times, it's kinda fun. This image from T. depicts the shopping district preferred by locals, which a friend of ours/local yoga instructor took us recently.]



[Waiting on the cows/water buffalo/whatever to cross the road can lead to explosions of anger on your more Chennasty of days...other times, it just looks like a great photo op!]

Shifting Spaces: Part 2...

MOVING IN:




[T. and N. had mattresses delivered to their new, unfurnished flat...this was the priceless shot T. caught of the "delivery truck"! Can you imagine?? I can barely stay balanced on my cycle, let alone maneuvering this awkwardness through our city's streets!! I guess he DOES have a tiny trailer for it to balance on-but still!]


Renting here is a curious thing. I will spare you the details of our prolonged search for a new place. Once found, it took a number of weeks to negotiate our lease and fees. As mentioned before, there is the matter of 10 months deposit. Then, there is also an agent to pay. I have had to pay an agent’s fee for a rental in Boston. That agent actually found a place for us to look at and handled all the negotiations with our landlord. While it was painful to pay that fee, it was at least understood that some work had been involved on the part of the agent.

In our case here, we found a place online, dealt solely with the owner of the property ourselves, and literally made one phone call to the agent. And for that, it is generally accepted that he receive one month’s rent as payment! Please note: this is TWICE what some of our staff, who put their lives on the line, are paid for a month of arduous work. HUH?!

Then, we are dealing with a lease that uses phrases even our staff attorneys could not make sense of...so, after a week of back and forth on our lease, an agreement is finally signed. We moved our stuff via auto (4 trips back and forth), and despite its already having been “thoroughly cleaned,” we began a thorough cleaning of our own (things were still growing in the fridge and counters were extremely sticky).

Overall, the new flat is fabulous! It is such a relief to no longer be in transition. We have a playground below our window, which is always full of neighbourhood kids. We have plenty of tacky 70s looking velour seating at our disposal. We are, once again, the only non-nationals living in the complex. I realized this when I dropped off ironing with the man who lives next to his work station in our parking lot...I told him I’d pick it up the following evening, but instead, he unexpectedly dropped it off right to our door as soon as he’d finished (I hadn’t told him where I lived).

So, as is the norm, we are still dealing with setting up our “already set-up” internet service. In one day, we had four people come by the apartment. One of the four was at the wrong apartment (he was there to “disconnect” someone’s modem...”No, sir. Please CONNECT.” “Disconnect?” “NO sir, please CONNECT”), which was eventually discovered when I realized we were not going to fully understand each other and sagely called a friend to translate. After this day of being told “I will go, and come” and being met by a completely new individual several times, we have now seen a new face every day, and yet, still do not have internet.

Part of me thinks that it is not purely incompetence on the part of the company that no one seems to come to our house prepared for the work that is expected and required. Perhaps it is more the curiosity of its staff, who simply want to see the weird western women that live on their own? I’m sure it’s neither, but it’s interesting to learn where I need God to teach me patience...the internet, of all things? Really??


[The temporary flat is the top floor of this lovely home. Auntie and Uncle lived right below-they are the sweet landlords, who had many words of advice for us. So cute.]

Shifting Spaces: Part 1...

MOVING OUT:

The past month and a half has been spent “shifting flats” (moving from one apartment to another). Our lease ended May 31st, and we were all too ready to say goodbye to the wilful termites, overabundance of cockroaches, and Superman, our unstable landlord (to put it nicely). Before we could shift, we had to prepare our current flat for its final inspection by Superman. This meant repairing fixtures (that, for all I know, may or may not have worked when we moved in) and learning that our A/C WAS truly broken-and therefore needed repairing itself. The A/C had, in fact, been leaking gas (which may explain some of the difficulty I had in waking each morning...hmmm...).

Why must we go to the trouble? Because local housing rules demand that tenants pay a deposit worth 10 MONTHS RENT before moving in. Yes, ten (10) months. All at once. In addition to actually paying rent. Considering how difficult this is for us to front, it is apparent how such a system discriminates against any but the wealthiest of citizens.

The catch? Oh, yes, it is not that simple, folks. There is NO guarantee that the landlord will pay the deposit back; especially a landlord as slippery as Superman. It was our fear that if the flat was not absolutely perfect upon his final inspection, he would keep our entire deposit. The weeks leading up to this inspection were wrought with headaches.

For example: We called daily about having someone come inspect the A/C and fix the wiring to one light socket. The daily response from both inquiries was that someone would be by later that day. One of us would wait at home later, and be sorely disappointed. Calls the next day would receive explanations such as “oh, the electrician had to attend a funeral unexpectedly” (totally understandable, but a call informing us that no one would show might have been appreciated!) or “oh, yes, he could not come” (no, really?! Well, glad that explains things). And then we would be reassured that someone would come that night, “by 8:00, Ma’am.” Uh, huh. This went on for at least a week. Finally, the A/C guys showed up (we never saw the electrician-a story for another post*). After diagnosing the problem we were told someone would come to retrieve the A/C the next morning. Fine.

This was one week before our inspection/the last day of the month. By this point, we had already been repairing things around the apartment for almost a month. These were just the final touches. Of course, no one showed up the next morning, despite my roommate skipping work for the morning to handle the issue; no one thought to “give a call” and inform us that he would not make it. The next day, my roommate got a call: “Half hour, Madame. Someone is coming in half hour.” Two hours later, someone showed up and took the A/C, explaining that it would take two days to repair and return. Two days later, no A/C and no one would answer our calls regarding its status. Three days later, we called again.

It was a Saturday (most people work Saturdays here; children even attend school). The man asked for one more day, “I will bring Monday.” Okay, that’s actually two more days, but who’s counting? In any other circumstance we would nod and shake our heads knowingly. Unfortunately, we were supposed to have our inspection on Sunday, and be out of the flat by Monday. In other words, we needed it that day. “Okay, Madame, we will bring tonight by 8:00.” Innocently, we believed the man. My roommate sacrificially stayed home, skipping out on an intern/fellows event at our office director’s house. As should have been expected, no one came that night. Instead, the man turned his phone off. Until Monday.

Luckily for us, Superman also turned his phone off on Sunday, and didn’t come to inspect until Monday night. Oi. In the end, my flatmate who handled all Superman interactions for the rest of us ended up crying (which she never does); speaking very angrily with him; and breaking her phone in a moment of total frustration before he finally agreed to return our deposit to us. This was after he berated her for having such a temper, of course, and asked her, incredulously, how she ever expected to get married, speaking to a man in such a manner. Oh, poor Mrs. Superman.

Mind you: this was just the moving out.




[V. and a friend of his helped us move N. and T. into their new flat-N. is in her third year here, and has had MANY items bequeathed from past interns/fellows/friends. Luckily, V. had a friend with a truck, and luckily, they both had muscles to spare! This pic shows me and V. goofing around with T.'s stylish hats on the last, and smallest, haul of the day. Holding items in the truck on the short drive wasn't as uncomfortable as it may have looked. It was a loooong, hot day for moving...and it was only the first of many! 1) We moved OUT of "the Penthouse" May 31; 2) T. and N. moved IN to their new flat the same day; 3) I moved into T.'s old room for a week while J., B. and I waited for our new flat to become available/lease to be finalized; 4) J., B., and I moved out of temporary housing (see photo below) and into our latest, greatest abode!]



[The temporary flat was on the top floor of this lovely home. Auntie and Uncle lived right below-they are the sweet landlords, who had many words of advice for us. So cute.]

Wednesday, May 27, 2009

On the road to UBUD, in central Bali



The hills are full of these rice terraces.
Stunning really.







This sweet Hindu woman is carrying her offering to the temple.
It is a daily ritual, which involves quite a sacrifice of funds & sweat.









I've never seen Poinsettias outside of their Christmas foil-wrapped pots before!









Lake Batur, in the shadows of Mount Batur, one of Bali's still-active volcanoes.





Back to life, back to reality...




It was a magical ten…no wait, make that nine, noooo…eight days in the beautiful Indonesian archipelago. Well, however many days I was actually in the country did not seem like enough. With over 17 thousand islands to explore, I doubt an entire lifetime would be enough! Under the guise of the mandatory “visa run,” I was able to embark on a dream vacation. Yes, when I explain to my co-workers I was absent last week because I had to take my visa run (which IS true: the particular visa all the ex-pats in the office have requires that we leave the host country every 180 days from the entry date stamped in our passports), they laugh knowingly: “Uh huh, sure, visa run. Did you enjoy your holiday?” To which I heartily respond, “Oh yeah!”



Seven days were spent enjoying the beaches, the jungles, the rice terraces, the Hindu temples, the people of Bali, and most importantly, time with Ben. The Balinese are very proud of their culture and their traditions. Approximately 85% of its population considers themselves Hindu (Indonesia is a Muslim nation). Every taxi driver we had was very open about his beliefs and was a great guide to understanding the sights and sounds around us. Living in a Hindu nation, myself, I found the differences in the religion here fascinating, and sometimes surprising. The drivers taught us how to differentiate between Balinese and those born off the island—for example, all sons (and daughters, I believe) are given names that signify their birth order. We met many a Dewa and Made (first and second). Most of our drivers were fluent in English, and as children, were taught to play a traditional instrument, perform a traditional dance (which we saw one of…there are several), or study a martial art…or all three! They also drove us through many mountain villages that were known for a particular art form, such as wood carving, painting, kite-making, etc. The talent creased into the hills of Bali is unreal.



I ditched “poor” Ben (who can really feel bad for a guy stuck on BALI??) for one day to visit my dear friend, and a former roommate, Melissa. She is living on Java, in a spunky university town called Yogyakarta, where she has been granted the prestigious Fulbright scholarship to do research. The short time spent with her was very special. I loved getting to see her home, favorite local spots, meet her landlord (Ibu), hear her speak conversational Indonesian, and even attend an event at the university she is affiliated with…the U.S. ambassador was the guest of honor, so the Fulbrighters had to make an appearance.






Alas, work beckoned, and I had to say a weepy goodbye to Ben, Melissa, and the exquisite archipelago. Thank you, Lord, for such a rejuvenating week of sleep, balanced meals, sunshine, and special people.

Tuesday, May 26, 2009

Not an idle March...(tardy-post!)

**NOTE: this was composed awhile ago-due to a broken computer, a constant flow of visitors, and VACATION (WAHOO!), I have slacked in posting for waaaaay too long. More current posts will be coming soon...whatever soon means :))

Has it really been six months since I left the beautiful Bay Area?! It was JUST New Years, and Julie and Neal were visiting. Hey, speaking of: if you want a good time, come see me! I’ll let you clean up termites & cockroaches; share a bed with two other people; AND cause you to fry in the hot sun, whilst hungry and thirsty, as you search for me sans cell phone for hours on end (life is rough without that glorious little communication device…who knew??!)…Can you believe they actually want to come back (you guys are amazing!)??





From my first full January weekend (which was the Wall Graffiti Program described in one of my earlier blog posts), deadlines have demanded my attention-so much so, that I hardly even noticed it was St. Patrick’s Day; that is, until my co-worker came in wearing blinking shamrocks! The strange part, however, is that even the normally-mundane tasks of creating schedules and inventory lists have been abnormally fulfilling. I found myself at the office from 7 am until 11 pm last night feeling challenged and focused until probably the last hour (when the whining in my head started). The hours vary day-to-day (as does my attitude), but I have several projects going on right now and ALL of them excite me! [Here, again, my ADHD rears its ugly head: which to work on first?? Dr. G, I’ll have you know that all the prioritizing training is paying off (at least in one very important area…everything else is bound to fall into place any day now…yep, aaany day…)]

For those who are curious about the activities they are so generously supporting (other than the Wall Graffiti event and allowing mosquitoes to feast on me), the following is a brief recap of my first three-and-a-half months of 2009:

*Back in November we started running a three-day workshop for the victims of bonded labor rescued in the most recent operations to help with the transition into lives of freedom, aptly named “Freedom Trainings.” Since then, one of my projects has been to help create some, and continually refine the, curriculum and materials used during this workshop (for more on this subject, please read my blog post titled, “Let Freedom Ring”). We have already organized three “freedom trainings” in 2009, and foresee many more in the coming months, including one next week. We expect over 50 individuals at that training.

*Reports, reports, reports! Annual reports are due to government officials in each district. Since January, these have filled several nights of editing all of the documentation kept on families, as well as compiling statistical data. Also, starting in January, our office was selected to participate in a study to ensure our “aftercare” department is actually accomplishing what it says it is, and is actually helpful to the families we serve. All offices will have to participate in these monthly reports come July, but for now, just a few offices are helping create measurable indicators, that make sense to our American headquarters and donors, but that are appropriate for the type of work each office is focused on and culturally accurate. For our office, I have been given the role of point person/data collector. I don’t envy the committee in charge of creating this study: victims of forced prostitution require a very different aftercare response than victims of forced labor, and yet they must create indicators that do not create a ton of extra paperwork for the field offices but do allow our output to be evaluated objectively by onlookers. It’s been fascinating, despite the headaches.

*A second round of graduate-level social work students began, and I was able to help orient our newest addition to her internship. It’s been great to discuss her experiences and share my own tips over the weeks. We’re preparing curriculum now for a month-long intensive internship (called “Block Placement”) for final year MSW (Masters of Social Work) students from nearby colleges. The session I am currently helping prepare for, and will co-lead, is on PTSD (post-traumatic stress disorder).

*Perhaps the biggest chunk of time, after the aftercare indicators pilot study and freedom training preparation, has been spent writing an initial project proposal for a partnership with another NGO that is near and dear to my heart; one that would provide a much needed service for the families we work with. It is a joint proposal, written for both organizations, with several deadlines. Thankfully, it is not in my hands at the moment, so I’ve had a few days to breathe.

Other than the Freedom Trainings, these tasks have kept me glued to my desk at the office, so it was a treat to make it back to a village this week. I was able to observe a children’s group led by our current student intern; visit with a young girl who had participated in the Wall Graffiti program as I shared pictures with her mother and grandfather from that weekend; and accompany a young burn victim and her ailing mother back to the city and its hospitals. My direct involvement ended that evening after settling them into their lodging for the night, but the news from the following day was extremely hopeful for both patients.

In February, I was able to take a few days off to travel. I rode the train to a neighboring state for a friend’s wedding; and took a few days off later in the month when Ben came to visit. He experienced the city for the first half of the week, while I worked; and THEN…flew us both to the infamous Taj Mahal. Easter was celebrated with a glorious feast shared by approximately twenty friends, both expats and nationals, following church (the sunrise service was avoided, as many churches start these services at 3 or 4 am!!! As fun as THAT sounds…I would prefer to actually be awake for the sermon). And there you have the main happenings of 2009 thus far.



May you all be enjoying the cherry blossoms and sweet smells of Spring...

Thursday, April 23, 2009

In loving memory...


For the joy and strength she continues to provide…I celebrate the life of ERIN MICHELE JUHL (November 27, 1983-April 23, 2008) with my Cupertino family today. My heart is with you all.

Tuesday, April 21, 2009

Consumption


There are days when this city feels like one giant trash heap. Cows rummage through the layers of garbage along the river banks in search of anything edible. Small fires create suffocating smoke, as people burn the excess from the week. Where else can it go? There are no friendly neighborhood garbage men to whip up the cans lined neatly along the streets and toss them back into people’s yards. And there are CERTAINLY no orange or blue bins specified for recycling.
Despite the appearances, however, it is MY creation of trash and consumption of goods that is most frightening. Before my arrival, I liked to consider myself a “true Californian,” whatever that means. But, as I understood it, this meant that I grew up recycling, conserving water* and caring about preserving the environment. I was raised by the motto “recycle, reduce, reuse” (thanks mom, dad, and the Cupertino Union School District). Don’t worry, though: I did realize how little effort I really put towards these means, and how ironic my home state’s damage to the environment continues to be through its worship of the automobile... still, I was the obnoxious one, while living in East Texas, who saved three-months-worth of recyclable items because I was going take it all back to California with me if I had to, darn it! Yeah, never mind that I was DRIVING the whole way home (because that’s not harmful to the environment, or anything!). Where I lived during that time had no means of recycling and I found this truly appalling...Luckily, a trip to a nearby city, just days before my trip back to the West Coast, led to the discovery of (wait for it….)…one whole recycling plant.
It was an excruciating first couple months after moving here, as I had to learn to hold my tongue when garbage was tossed out of cars or dropped on the side of the road (it appears to be generally accepted that the roads are cleaned every morning, and garbage is simply piled up and burned wherever it is collected). Items, such as plastic bottles, are retrieved and reused (Slumdog Millionaire, anyone?); but for the discarded and seemingly-useless: it’s straight into the fire. Inhaling the fumes as I cycle home each night is most unpleasant. Rather than turning up my nose in disgust, however, I have been forced to spend time doing a little self-reflection.
While my ecological footprint was already pretty embarrassing, it wasn’t until coming here that I realized the vast piles of waste that I alone was creating. Growing up in a land of abundance certainly creates privileges, but for me, it also has caused me to be ridiculously extravagant. Let’s take a quick, and humbling, look at just a few examples:
1) Although I use a water canister, the number of plastic bottles I accumulate to satiate my need for a daily caffeine-rush is disturbing….especially compared to the two men I share an office with-well, let’s just say, I drink them under the table!! And, I’m fairly certain I am the only one that adds to the garbage can in our office.
2) When I started in the office, I was provided with a small stapler, a small two-hole puncher, a small box of paperclips and tacks, a pencil, a pen, a sharpener and an eraser. This took up very little space in my desk drawer and seems to be how most of the office manages just fine. Once I loaded up the items I brought with me, however, the drawer was overflowing! There were the little roll-on white outs, two boxes of pens, three binders, pile of semi-used notebooks, tabs of all sizes (you know, the sticky tabs to make papers where someone should sign, etc.?, post-it notes…oi vey! The expressions on my co-workers faces! While many find the items fascinating and often come by to borrow them, there are still others who call me out on my over-use of post-it notes and tabs (without realizing it, of course)…what it takes to keep me organized…sheesh!
3) The bag I carry on a daily basis holds just about as much as a family brings for the entire three-day “Freedom Training” we conduct. No matter how many times I’ve tried to lessen the load, however, I continue to stubbornly swear I need it all…
Earlier this year, when the financial crisis made the headlines in big ways, an article by a local journalist caught my attention. He described reading about Americans’ attempts to live frugally during the holidays, such as families cutting back on the number of Christmas presents they could give their children this year. His response was that the recession will be felt less here than elsewhere because the majority of South Asians have always lived frugally. It is a part of their nature, he explains. In my friends and coworkers here, this seems to ring true, as many have one vehicle per family (and, therefore, are dropped off at work by a spouse in the morning-the exhaust emissions aside); most bring their lunch every day in re-useable tins; paper conservation is constantly encouraged; and many prefer to work with the lights out (we have city-wide blackouts almost daily).
Huh. The contrasts of this land continue to baffle me. As does the statistic that 20% of the world’s population (mainly the U.S.) consumes 80% of its resources. A brief self-examination has shown this to be true, at least in my small sphere. There is so much I can learn from this community, and yet, there is so much room for growth here, as well. Just some thoughts. Happy Earth Day, all! http://www.earthday.net/earthday2009
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*Disclaimer: Water conservation was due to drought conditions, so I feel obliged to add this as a disclaimer considering this was more forced upon us…who knows if this would have been a value if we had an endless supply?? 

Thursday, April 16, 2009

I Want to Ride My Bicycle


Tada!! Feast your eyes on my stylin’ “cycle.” Here she is, my ladies bicycle, in all her glory. For the past month and a half, I have been riding this baby to and from work, the store, friend’s flats, aaand…that’s about it. In another month and a half, I will have made up the difference between the cost of riding to work in an auto and the cost of the cycle itself; but including weekend travels, I’m pretty sure the difference will be made up much earlier.

Having my own transportation has brought me so much joy. When I do have to play the haggling game with an auto driver, I am less easily frustrated and actually find it fun on occasion. The biggest drawbacks, so far, are: 1) the amount of dirt and exhaust I inhale during even my short rides to/from the office; 2) the layer of “air” (when you can FEEL it, it deserves quotation marks) that covers my face all day; and 3) the fact that I fear for my life at every turn. But, in reality, the pros far outweigh such cons: 1) my prayer life has expanded exponentially (more so for the others on the road than me-that no one else would be hurt by my lack of experience on these streets); 2) again, the freedom of movement has opened up so many doors-I’ve found new grocery stores and understand the lay of the land much better; 3) I feel more a part of the life here, as being so exposed allows me to interact more with nationals; 4) the nationals are (for the most part) extremely amused at my attempts to cycle; 5) the activity makes me feel much less sedentary (it’s a form of exercise that creates natural air-conditioning…something very much lacking at the speed I run)...

It has also made me appreciate being a foreigner more than anything else. A white girl on an ostentatious cycle, while most likely annoying, is rather conspicuous. Whereas the stares normally get old, I’m fairly certain they have saved my life time and again. People will slow down until I’m safely across the intersection, rather than blasting their horns (which would be more the norm). Bystanders warn other drivers of my presence when my little bell just won’t cut it. And, luckily, they seem to be more forgiving of my foibles. Let’s hope that lasts!

Tuesday, March 24, 2009

Wall Graffiti


It was a star-studded event. “The first of its kind;” and a handful of our kids got to be a part of it. Okay, sadly, I didn’t even know who the “stars” were, but then again, if you ask me, they were actually our kids. Never-you-mind the U.S. Consular-General, famous national artist, and local media personnel…six of our youngsters were given the opportunity to demonstrate their unique artistic talents. Now their names and work are permanently displayed in a mural painting covering one wall of the U.S. Consulate here.

In January, we were one of three agencies serving underprivileged children invited to participate in a local arts festival (co-sponsored by a local arts organization and UNICEF). The festival was intended to promote awareness of violence against children. And our clients rose to the occasion. Two days were spent painting the mural created by well-known (around here, at least) art director, Thotta Tharani, from suggestions given to him by local school children. Images included the American and national flag intertwining, kids playing basketball and cricket, kids reading in a library, symbols of peace, and other famous sites from both countries. Tharani gave our kids individual attention as he helped them improve their blending of colors and stroke movements.

It was surreal watching the care with which our kids applied these principles. True artistes. One boy brought his entire collection of pencils from home…just in case. They practiced painting within the lines the night before-and were so excited about the project that they were reportedly dressed and waiting for their 7 am pick up by 4 am!! Wah???!

Since we work with so many kids, it was hard for staff to narrow down the number of participants! Those who came had demonstrated some artistic skill, but mainly, they had to be of a certain grade level (proof that they have consistently attended school) and currently attending regularly. We wished we could have honored all our hard-working scholars**, but unfortunately, we were only allowed six (actually, five, but the organizers let us squeeze one more in…Ha ha- take that Consulate security!).

At the close of Day 1, we took the children to a local beach. Four of the six had never been to the beach. The thrill of this new experience was apparent in their high-pitched squeals of delight while jumping in the waves and building sand castles near the water's edge. Before leaving the beach, my co-worker treated the children to ice cream cones. It was a good time. Especially, getting to see these young people just being kids!

Once back in the car, my co-worker asked all our little artists, "What will you do now? Rest?” Amidst protests, one of the six mischievously replied, "No, Madam, we are too excited to sleep. We will play games all night." Of course, by the time the vehicle reached the lodge that was housing the children and their parents for the weekend, all six were sound asleep.

Day 2 found the children just as excited as the day before. As the mural neared completion, the children met with the local U.S. Consul General and members of the press. Before the children left town, we brought their parents (who, due to consulate security regulations, hadn’t been given permission to attend the event) to see the finished product. Each child was able to point out his/her signature that had been ceremoniously inscribed onto the wall earlier that day.

Despite my inability to converse with the kids, they were fantastic about helping me feel included in the fun. I was left alone with them for twenty minutes, as we waited for their parents to arrive, and they all became my language teachers and dressed me up to look as local as possible…I think it was in an attempt to marry the old “spinster” (as any single female is referred to-at age 18, 28, or 38…it doesn’t matter) off to one of the local men working at the event. The big tipoff was when they made the two of us pose for a picture with him handing me a “ring.” Oh, those kids…such a riot.

The chance to bond with our kids more made this weekend of working from the wee hours of the morning (without comp time, mind you) absolutely worth every minute. I love my job.

**The drop-out rate in the villages is extremely high, and fluctuates constantly. Many of the children we work with have either a) been forced to work alongside their parents or grandparents (some even as young as five); or b) never had the opportunity to attend school before their release. This creates any number of challenges as they try to transition back to village life. Knowing what a struggle it was for me to sit in a classroom, I can only imagine how difficult it must be for our kids to suddenly be expected to sit at a desk, listen to a teacher, complete homework assignments, take tests…even holding a pencil or drawing are novelties for some of our clients. For those youths that are still too young to work full-time, starting in a classroom full of kids half your age can be too embarrassing. Others try to start in classrooms part-way through a school year…any of us would struggle to catch up!

Basic classroom etiquette aside, lots of our kids are dealing with the trauma of forced servitude, and often, additional physical or sexual abuse. While corporal punishment is illegal here, it is still a common classroom practice. To be beaten by a teacher could easily re-traumatize our clients. Several clients claim to fear a teacher. Asking that teachers not hit students, however, is seen as ludicrous, since this is not viewed in the villages, and even by many in the city, as abuse or excessive.